When people envision Illinois, they often picture Chicago or vast stretches of flat, rural farmland. While these perceptions hold true, there exists a distinct region within Illinois: Southern Illinois. Unlike its northern and central counterparts dominated by suburban sprawl and agricultural landscapes, southern Illinois stands apart. This is where I spent a significant portion of my life — ages 10 to 17, and again from ages 21 to 26, with a brief interlude in Indiana (not recommended). Southern Illinois is home to the Shawnee National Forest, a treasure trove of natural wonders and hidden gems waiting to be explored.
Southern Illinois is home to a plethora of natural wonders and historical sites, including Garden of the Gods, Kinkaid Lake Spillway, Burden Falls, Stoneface, Cave-in-Rock, Jackson Falls, Devils Kitchen Lake, Bell Smith Springs, the Iron Furnace, and Rim Rock, among others. Additionally, historical landmarks such as the Pioneer Village Museum in Harrisburg, the first chartered bank in Illinois in Shawneetown, the reportedly haunted “Slave House” (no longer open to the public), and Fort Massac in Metropolis, a city famously associated with Superman, add to the region’s allure. In this blog, I will explore a selection of these destinations.
Garden of the Gods
While the more famous Garden of the Gods is located in Colorado, Southern Illinois boasts its own version, which is perhaps lesser-known but equally deserving of recognition. Tucked within the Shawnee National Forest and located within Hardin County, our Garden of the Gods is a breathtaking sight to behold. Dotted with towering rock formations and offering views of expansive hills stretching for miles, it captivates visitors with its natural beauty. Among its notable features are rock formations resembling human and monkey faces, as well as the iconic Camel Rock, making it a must-visit destination in the region.
Locals often climb the rocks at Garden of the Gods throughout their lives, while many visitors attempt the same with varying outcomes. Sadly, on average, at least one person per year loses their life at Garden of the Gods, with the majority being out-of-towners. The treacherous nature of the rocks, coupled with their deceptive appearance, poses significant risks. Visitors may underestimate the height of the drop or the slippery surface of the rocks, leading to accidents. Growing up in the area instills an awareness of these dangers and the annual tragedies that occur. Staying on the designated paths and avoiding venturing too close to the edges is crucial for safety. It’s a reminder to exercise caution and respect the natural environment while enjoying the beauty. 👌🏼
I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve visited this place, but my favorite seasons to go are fall and early winter. In the fall, the forest transforms into a mesmerizing display of changing leaves of red, yellow, and orange, creating a breathtaking backdrop. As early winter sets in, the crowds thin out due to the chilly temperatures, offering the possibility of having the entire place to yourself or sharing it with just a handful of visitors.
On the other hand, summer paints a starkly different picture. The heat, humidity, bugs, and snakes make it less enjoyable, especially with the influx of tourists and locals alike. Despite its popularity, Garden of the Gods remains a beloved destination, conveniently located just a 30-minute drive from surrounding towns.
While the idea of humidity and encountering snakes might seem daunting, don’t let it discourage you from visiting during the summer months. I’ve personally taken my brother, mother, and stepfather — all native Californians — to Garden of the Gods in the summer, and they had a perfectly enjoyable experience. For those considering a summer visit, dusk is the ideal time to go. With fewer people and cooling temperatures, it offers a more comfortable and serene atmosphere to explore the beauty of this natural wonder.
Stoneface
Growing up, Stoneface was practically in my backyard. I could walk from my father’s house to Stoneface any day I pleased. Situated in Saline County, it occupies a less-visited corner of Southern Illinois compared to many other locations I’ll mention. It offers a pleasant hike with numerous interesting rock formations and caves to explore. However, during my last attempt to hike there, my friend and I were driven off by the dense overgrowth and an onslaught of ticks (ew). Despite this drawback, Stoneface remains a hidden gem worth exploring for those willing to navigate its challenges.
When the trail isn’t overgrown and infested with ticks, navigating from the parking lot to the rock formations at Stoneface is relatively straightforward. The trail begins like any typical woodland path, gradually revealing the awesome rock formations and caves along the way. As you progress, you’ll find yourself ascending to higher ground, eventually reaching the summit of the rock formations you were initially passing by. Continuing along the trail, you’ll eventually reach an open area near the power lines, offering sweeping views of the surrounding landscape stretching for miles in every direction. It’s a rewarding end to the hike, providing a sense of accomplishment and the opportunity to marvel at the natural beauty of Southern Illinois.
Stoneface offers a charming day trip destination, leaving ample time to explore other outdoor spots nearby. Fortunately, many of these destinations are within easy reach, allowing visitors to maximize their time and experience the diverse natural wonders of Southern Illinois.
Cave-in-Rock
Cave-in-Rock, situated in Hardin County next to the Ohio River and village of the same name, stands out as one of the most fascinating destinations in Southern Illinois. Despite the allure of its natural beauty, the cave’s appeal has been somewhat marred by vandalism and graffiti over the years. Nevertheless, it remains a noteworthy free state park open from 8 AM to 9 PM . Located across the river from Kentucky, visitors can drive their cars onto a free ferry for a scenic journey to explore Kentucky Amish Country. While Cave-in-Rock is essentially just a cave, it’s undeniably impressive in size, even though it’s not particularly deep. It’s an excellent choice for a family day trip, with picnic tables and play areas conveniently located near the parking lot within the state park.
Cave-in-Rock boasts a colorful and somewhat notorious history, intertwined with characters of questionable moral character. Beginning in the late 1700s and extending into the mid-1800s, the cave served as a hideout for a slew of well-known outlaws, drawn to its strategic proximity to the river. Among these infamous figures were counterfeiters Philip Alston and John Duff, James Wilson — who humorously named the cave “Wilson’s Liquor Vault and House for Entertainment” with a sign above the entrance — along with the Sturdivant Gang, the Ford’s Ferry Gang, and the Harpe Brothers.
After its days of debauchery and lawlessness, the cave underwent a transformation, becoming a place of worship in the mid-1800s when churches began utilizing it for services. Today, as a state park owned by Illinois, the cave no longer serves as a site of religious gatherings but stands as a testament to its rich and varied history.
Devils Kitchen Lake
Devil’s Kitchen Lake, nestled in Williamson County just outside Marion, is a hidden gem often overlooked by visitors. Despite its scenic beauty, the lake remains relatively lesser-known and underutilized, possibly due to its “no swimming” policy.
Accessing the lake isn’t overly challenging, but navigating the area can be tricky, especially for those unfamiliar with the location. Even as a local to the surrounding area, I found myself lost and turned around while driving through the wildlife refuge en route to the lake. The refuge boasts numerous turn-offs leading to various sections of the lake, and my friend and I stumbled upon our chosen turn-off purely by chance.
Decently sized, Devil’s Kitchen Lake spans approximately 4 miles in length. It holds popularity among fishermen owing to its abundant fish population. However, swimming is strictly prohibited due to submerged standing trees resulting from previous flooding incidents. The presence of these submerged trees poses a significant risk of injury, making swimming unsafe and therefore restricted at the lake. Despite the prohibition on swimming, it remains a wonderful destination for family picnic outings, date, or those who just want to spend time outdoors.
Rim Rock
Deep within Gallatin County, Rim Rock stands adjacent to a local well-known swimming hole called Pounds Hollow. On scorching summer days, taking a hiking adventure through Rim Rock’s rock formations, followed by a refreshing dip at Pounds Hollow, makes for an enticing day trip. However, while some enjoy the waters of Pounds Hollow, others, like myself, find it less appealing due to its murky quality and the presence of potentially dangerous water snakes native to the area. Nonetheless, exploring the hiking trails around Rim Rock provides a fulfilling outdoor experience amidst the natural beauty of the region.
From the parking lot, the trail at Rim Rock initially presents itself as smooth, paved, and fairly straightforward. However, a pivotal point arises where the trail diverges, offering adventurers a choice. Continuing along the paved path ensures a relatively easy journey, while descending the wooden staircase leads to a different experience altogether. This descent unveils a maze-like passage through the initial rock formation, offering a unique exploration opportunity. While navigating this path on a dry, summer day poses minimal challenge, be prepared for puddles and mud if visiting during or after a rainstorm.
Once you make it through the labyrinthine passage, you’ll find yourself descending further to the trail below. Here, there are no man-made staircases; the rocks themselves become your staircase. My friend managed this descent with her 3-month-old baby strapped to her chest, underscoring the manageable nature of the climb. After descending the rocky staircase, the trail becomes relatively straightforward. While it’s a dirt path, it’s well-worn and easy to traverse, minimizing the risk of getting lost. As the trail winds around the rock formations, you’ll encounter a choice: turn left to head towards Pounds Hollow or turn right to continue along the dirt trail back up to the parking lot. Opting for the latter, you’ll be treated to more stunning rock formations and cliffs, while the former leads you on a simple trail through the woods.
Pioneer Village Museum
Growing up in Harrisburg (back in Saline County), I always found myself questioning why the pioneer village wasn’t more popular. With its authentic buildings from bygone eras, one would expect it to be a bustling attraction, right? However, I later discovered that while the structures are indeed real, the village itself is NOT an original settlement. Rather, it’s a meticulously crafted replica designed to showcase what a historic village might have looked like. These buildings were carefully sourced from various locations across Southern Illinois, serving as a means of preservation and historical education. Despite its modest size, I believe it’s a delightful destination worth visiting, especially for families with children. Even navigating the village while 10 months and 3 days pregnant proved to be an enjoyable and manageable experience. 🙃
The grounds feature a significant building that has stood since the beginning — an unmistakable structure made of red brick. This building, formerly the Saline County Pauper House (please see above), now serves as a museum, preserving the area’s history. Aside from this structure, visitors can explore a diverse array of other buildings on the grounds, each offering a glimpse into the past. These include a blockhouse, a barn with a rare threshing floor (one of the few remaining in the United States), a post office, a school, a Quaker church, a jail, a traditional cabin, and the Wilson pirate cabin (remember him?), originating from the Cave-in-Rock area. Together, these structures provide a comprehensive view of the region’s historical heritage.
Despite living in Harrisburg for many years, I didn’t explore this place until I was 26 years old and 10 months pregnant — an unexpected time indeed. With my mother and stepfather visiting in anticipation of my daughter’s birth, we found ourselves with some time to spare (she was in no rush to make her appearance, apparently). When we arrived at the museum, we found it deserted, despite online indications that it was open. It turns out that visitation to the museum is quite sporadic, necessitating a call in advance to arrange for a tour. This detail came as a major FYI for us.
We returned the next day with my father and stepfather, and as luck would have it, a groundskeeper was present when we arrived. The subsequent experience perfectly epitomizes small-town USA: despite not knowing us, and with no tour officially booked, he graciously guided us through the entire grounds, unlocking doors to the cabin, school, post office, and church so we could explore. He even granted us access to the main museum building, the brick pauper house, allowing us to roam freely. Such hospitality is rare in larger cities. We were deeply appreciative of his kindness and made sure to handle everything with care and respect. Having the opportunity to explore these buildings for free and without other visitors around was truly special. As for the museum itself, well, it’s certainly unique.
Burden Falls
Nestled deep within the Shawnee National Forest, in northwestern Pope County, lies Burden Falls. True to its name, the area features a charming waterfall known as, you guessed it, Burden Falls. Despite its modest height of only 20 feet, the falls are a beloved spot among locals and attract a fair amount of visitors, especially during the summer months. While dwarfed by the world’s most renowned waterfalls, Burden Falls still stands as one of the tallest waterfalls in Illinois — an impressive feat considering the state’s predominantly flat terrain.
Designated as an official wilderness area by the Illinois Wilderness Act of 1990, Burden Falls falls (get it) under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service. Responsible for its upkeep, the Forest Service should be contacted in case of any unusual occurrences in the area. Additionally, Burden Falls is conveniently located near Bell Smith Springs, another highly favored destination among Southern Illinoisians. Given their proximity, many visitors opt to explore both sites in a single day. Neither destination typically requires an entire day for exploration.
Getting to Burden Falls can indeed be challenging, particularly for those unfamiliar with the area, as there is no precise address available. According to the U.S. Forest Service website, directions involve taking State Highway 145 to the junction with Forest Road 447, then heading west to Forest Road 402, or alternatively taking State Highway to Stonefort, IL, and proceeding southeasterly on country roads. While not the most detailed instructions, they provide a starting point for travelers. The closest cities to Burden Falls are Harrisburg and Eddyville.
Burden Falls offers a different experience compared to typical swimming holes like those found at Bell Smith Springs or Pounds Hollow. It’s more geared towards hiking, with opportunities for rock climbing, exploring wading pools, and enjoying the streams. Climbing down to the bottom allows visitors to venture under the waterfall, which can be a fun experience when it’s flowing. While the descent is usually manageable, it can be a bit precarious at times. Depending on the season, the falls can vary in intensity, with spring snowmelt and summer rains often creating a beautiful and spectacular sight.
Once down, you have the opportunity to explore the area at your leisure. Alternatively, you can ascend back up and enjoy the natural wading pools that form near the mini waterfalls and streams. These pools contribute to the flow of water into the main waterfall, creating a picturesque setting for relaxation and enjoyment.
Metropolis
Located in Massac County and situated across the river from Kentucky, the city of Metropolis is renowned for its association with the iconic Superman franchise. While there may be other towns bearing the name “Metropolis” across the U.S., THIS particular Metropolis is known for going the hardest for Superman. Serving as its primary claim to fame and top tourist attraction, Metropolis is deeply ingrained in Superman lore. Additionally, the city is home to a prominent floating casino situated on the Ohio River, just beyond that pesky Illinois jurisdiction.
The primary attraction in Metropolis is undoubtedly the 200-foot statue of Clark Kent adorned in his iconic superhero attire, which welcomes visitors in the town square. People flock from all corners to catch a glimpse of this towering tribute. Adjacent to the statue, visitors can find the police department and a comic-themed store, which also hosts the Superman store and The Super Museum. Additionally, tucked away near the main Superman statue is a smaller statue dedicated to Lois Lane, adding to the charm of the Superman-themed attractions in the area.
Located at 45 W 5th St, Metropolis, IL 62960, The Super Museum stands as a shrine to Superman, welcoming visitors daily from 8 AM to 6 PM. Admission is affordably priced at $5 per ticket, with children 5 and under admitted free with a paid adult. The museum, inaugurated in 1993, boasts an impressive collection of over 70,000 Superman-related items, many of which are coveted collectors’ items for Superman enthusiasts. Exhibits include virtually every Superman toy ever produced, movie props, and promotional materials from all Superman movies and TV series, including “Smallville” and “Man of Steel.” Additionally, visitors can marvel at one of the few George Reeves Superman costumes still in existence, making it a must-visit destination for fans of the Man of Steel.
Fort Massac
Another cool attraction in Metropolis is Fort Massac, though it’s worth noting that it’s a replica. The original fort, erected in 1757 by the French during the French-Indian War, met its demise when Chickasaw Indians torched it after the war’s conclusion in 1763. Ordered to be rebuilt by George Washington in 1794, the fort suffered damage from an earthquake in 1812. Despite repairs for the War of 1812, it was abandoned once again in 1814 and eventually dismantled by locals seeking timber. While little of the original fort remains, a faithful reproduction of the 1812 structure was constructed in 2002, offering visitors a detailed glimpse into its historical significance.
Despite being a replica, Fort Massac remains an intriguing destination, particularly for families with children or history enthusiasts. It offers an educational glimpse into the past, allowing visitors to envision life in the 1800s. The fall reenactments vividly portray historical scenes, complementing the small museum housed in the visitors’ center. Once you’ve explored the fort, a short trip to Paducah, Kentucky across the river offers the chance for a day of enjoyable shopping.
O’Gara Coal Mine
Back in Saline County, just a brief 5-minute drive from Harrisburg, lies the remnants of an abandoned coal mine in the small hamlet of Muddy, home to just 44 residents. While access to the interior or underground areas is restricted, visitors are welcome to stroll up to and beneath the tipple — a structure utilized for loading mined products like coal for transportation — and explore the fenced-off surroundings. Despite the inability to venture inside, the opportunity to witness a genuine coal mine from the 1920s and 1930s up close remains a truly unique experience.
Operational for a mere 14 years, spanning from 1923 to 1937, the O’Gara Coal Mine met its demise due to a catastrophic flood — a notorious hazard for many mining operations. The closure of mines, such as this one, often carries significant consequences, particularly in terms of job losses. This reality echoed in the region during the closures of many mines in 2008 and 2009, just as it likely did during the 1920s and 1930s.
The O’Gara Coal Mine, constructed during one of the early coal rushes in the early 1900s, had a brief existence cut short by a natural disaster. Unlike some other mines, it lacks a history of mysterious deaths or accidents, dispelling any notions of haunting, though it exudes a distinctly eerie atmosphere at night. Accessible only by peering through metal bars… or employing a hacksaw… it serves primarily as a picturesque backdrop for photography, offering a brief yet intriguing hour-long excursion.
Kinkaid Lake Spillway
Located within Jackson County, there is an impressive swimming locale formed by a expansive lake surging over colossal rocks. Located approximately 25 minutes from Carbondale (Go Salukis), 50 minutes from Marion, and one hour from Harrisburg, the Kinkaid Lake Spillway boasts a singular main cascade alongside numerous smaller pools formed across its various tiers.
While beautiful and a fun outing, it’s unfortunate that the upkeep of outdoor areas like the Kinkaid Lake Spillway often falls by the wayside, especially in rural regions. During my visit, I found the spillway lacking in cleanliness and maintenance, with abundant trash and unsanitary restroom facilities. Despite its natural beauty, the neglect of such areas detracts from the overall experience and highlights the need for better upkeep.
Overall, as evident from this blog, Southern Illinois offers a plethora of attractions and activities for visitors to explore. What I’ve covered here only scratches the surface of what the region has to offer. From hidden trails to secluded watering holes, Southern Illinois boasts a diverse array of natural wonders waiting to be discovered. It’s a testament to the beauty and diversity of the state, offering hidden gems for those willing to seek them out. Illinois is a diverse state, more so than most people realize, and a beautiful one… you just need to know where to look. 😎
