One of two Spanish forts that call San Juan, Puerto Rico home, Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a travel pinnacle for travel lovers and history enthusiasts alike. Locally known as “El Morro”, this impressive fortress is the most iconic fortification constructed by the Spanish in the Americas. Situated in the historic district of Old San Juan, it commands attention with its epic and formidable presence, consisting of six levels overlooking the bay of San Juan and the Atlantic Ocean. A true testament to Spanish colonial architecture, Castillo San Felipe del Morro boasts a rich history spanning over 480 years. Construction began in 1539 under Charles I of Spain, and was finished in 1790, marking 251 years of continuous building. At a height of 140 feet above the shoreline, its walls measure an impressive 18 to 25 feet thick. By the time construction was complete, El Morro was recognized as the most feared and unconquerable of all Spanish colonial forts.
El Morro’s foreboding reputation was tested in 1595, just 56 years after construction began, during an ocean-led attack by the infamous Sir Francis Drake. Luck was on the Spanish side, as their brave defenders prevailed due to an unfortunate miscalculation by Drake. This victory solidified El Morro’s significance as the gateway to the Spanish empire. Nonetheless, undeterred by Drake’s embarrassing defeat – and learning from his mistakes – the Earl of Cumberland, George Clifford, captured El Morro only three years later in 1598, exploiting its vulnerability by land and not sea. Despite a brief two-month rule, dysentery (the poops) forced the English to retreat, reaffirming El Morro’s resilience. The good ole’ 1500’s.
Next up were the Dutch. Fed up with being under Spanish rule, they launched an assault on San Juan and El Morro in 1625 during their quest for independence. Despite their initial vigor, dwindling supplies and ammunition forced the Dutch to concede defeat after a mere 21 days, albeit not before causing substantial damage by burning down most of San Juan in a rage. In 1797, the British made yet another attempt to conquer El Morro but failed, yet again. It was not until the United States of America stepped up to the plate, attacking during the Spanish-American War in 1898, that El Morro finally, and officially, fell. Outdated and outmatched by the advanced U.S. weaponry and military capabilities, the once proud fortress succumbed in totality to enemy fire for the first time in over 300 years, marking the end of its era of invincibility.
After its fall, El Morro soon transitioned into an active U.S. military base and was used during both World Wars. During this time, the fort underwent some much needed upgrades, including adding a bunker, naval observation post, and anti-aircraft gun emplacement. However, by the time World War II ended, El Morro had become dilapidated and outdated, signaling the end of its military service. In 1949, it made history by becoming the first fortification system in Puerto Rico to fall under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service. Recognizing its cultural and historical significance, El Morro achieved World Heritage Site status in 1983. Today, it’s an historic landmark and a testament to Puerto Rico’s rich heritage.
Located less than 30 minutes from the Luis Muñoz Marin International Airport in San Juan, at 501 Norzagaray Street Castillo San Cristobal, it’s open daily from 9am to 5pm. Admission to the fortress costs $10 per person, with children under 15 free. Visitors holding a National Parks Pass can also enter for free. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring this massive, historic fort, with most areas open for visitors. Highlights include the Field of Fire in front offering panoramic views, the Water Battery with its cannons aimed towards the bay, the Dry Moat, Main Plaza, Main Battery showcasing the primary configuration of cannons, the Lower Patio, various sections such as former barracks, kitchens, guard towers, and the oldest part of the fort with walls dating back to 1593. Visitors can walk up and down the steep Artillery Ramp, the pathway to the main firing battery, and the dry moat.
As a history lover, my favorite part, and one of the most fascinating aspects of El Morro, is the above-mentioned original tower dating back to 1593. Its walls have stood firm for over four centuries, at 431 years. Visitors are allowed to walk down the ramp to explore this historic tower, which is the darkest and dampest part of El Morro. Light ceases to exist inside, and the air carries the distinctive aroma of a wet basement. While somewhat smelly, it was nonetheless impressive to stand in this area, which has been left untouched by time and rich with historical energy, imagining what life might have been like (and smelled like) over four centuries ago.
Lastly, one of the most fun aspects of exploring El Morro was the wild iguanas! They could be spotted literally everywhere, turning our visit into an hilarious game of “Iguana Where’s Waldo?” They were perched on walls, hiding in bushes, lying on top of rocks, and on areas overlooking pathways and the ocean. While Puerto Rico is widely known for its population of wild iguanas, encountering them firsthand is pretty cool, especially for visitors from the mainland U.S.A. – who aren’t from Florida, of course. 🦎
Overall, our visit to Castillo San Felipe del Morro was a great blend of fun and historical enrichment. As a lover of travel and historical sites, exploring its centuries-old walls filled my little traveler’s heart with joy. While others who come to the Caribbean may seek relaxation at resorts or on the beach (nothing wrong with that), my passion lies in visiting significant or historical places. Having the chance to explore a fort so steeped in centuries of history offered a truly enriching experience. A true testament to resilience, you could feel the presence of time and the weight of history upon your shoulders as you walked around, reminding you of the previous generations that walked its halls. Given its easy accessibility, a visit to the iconic El Morro should be at the top of the list for anyone visiting San Juan, Puerto Rico!
