As the final resting place of Wild West icons Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane, Deadwood, South Dakota has rightfully earned its place in the United States’ Frontier Gold Rush Hall of Fame. Established in 1876, the city earned its name from early settlers who discovered an abundance of dead wood in its surrounding valleys and enjoyed a brief heyday of just three years during the Black Hills Gold Rush, before the gold faded away and most settlers said “See ya!” by 1879. A beautifully preserved time capsule, it’s one of the best Wild West towns to visit if you want to step back into that era. Located in the scenic Black Hills region, Deadwood is perfect for a day trip or a weekend getaway.
Once a magnet for notorious Old West figures such as Wyatt Earp, Seth Bullock, Madam Mustache, and, of course, Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane, Deadwood quickly became synonymous with the lawlessness of the Wild West, where murders were commonplace and justice elusive. A notable and infamous example of this chaos was the murder of Wild Bill, one of the few prominent figures actually killed within Deadwood’s city limits. Shot dead by Jack McCall during a card game, McCall fled Deadwood to avoid capture but was apprehended shortly.
During his first trial, essentially an impromptu “court” made up of miners and local businessmen, he was found not guilty after just two hours – a verdict that infuriated the townspeople. With locals embracing the street justice mentality of the time, McCall was forced to flee to the Wyoming Territory, where he began boasting about killing Hickok. Causing anger amongst the authorities, they quickly dismissed the pesky notion of “double jeopardy,” arresting McCall again and dragging him back to Yankton, Dakota Territory, for a retrial. This time, the trial did not go in McCall’s favor – he was found guilty and publicly hanged at the ripe ole’ age of 24.
Deadwood is a premier tourist destination today, boasting a permanent population of around 1,300, according to the 2023 census. At the height of its Gold Rush era, the population swelled to over 25,000. The entire town is uniquely designated as a National Historic Landmark District, thanks to its well-preserved Gold Rush-era architecture that can be seen throughout. Originally granted to the Lakota people in 1868, the land on which Deadwood sits was occupied illegally by settlers, aka squatters, leading to various land disputes – some of which even reached the U.S. Supreme Court. Eventually, Lieutenant Colonel George Custer was ordered to lead an expedition into the Black Hills, where he discovered gold, sparking the uncontrollable boom of the Black Hills Gold Rush, and the rest is history. The town has endured three major fires and numerous economic hardships, bringing it to the brink of becoming an Old West ghost town.
However, the legalization of gambling in 1989 marked a turning point for Deadwood, leading to its rebirth. Nowadays, you’ll find countless gambling halls filled with various machines and blackjack tables, basically crowning it an “Old West Las Vegas.”
Today, Deadwood offers countless activities, including:
- Adams Museum: Founded in 1930 by pioneer businessman W.E. Adams, this museum preserves and displays the history of the Black Hills.
- Days of ’76 Museum: Features over 50 historic wagons, carriages, buggies, and other animal-powered vehicles.
- Saloon No. 10: See the actual chair Wild Bill Hickok was sitting in when he was killed and enjoy a free reenactment of the shooting Monday through Saturday.
- Deadwood Historic Tours: Private guided tours by local historian Jeannine Guern.
- Deadwood Escape Rooms: An interactive, real-life puzzle adventure.
- Historic Adams House: A stunning Queen Anne-style home built in 1892 by Deadwood pioneers Harris and Anna Franklin.
- Homestake Adams Research and Cultural Center: Houses and preserves one of the nation’s largest Black Hills archival materials collections.
- Mount Moriah Cemetery: Deadwood’s historic cemetery and the final home to Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Seth Bullock.
- Northern Hills Railway Society: Features intricately handcrafted models of Deadwood society and trains.
- The Brothel: Offers guided tours of the former Shasta Rooms, a historic brothel.
Deadwood also hosts several annual and limited-time events, including:
- Deadwood PBR: Held the 2nd weekend of June, where the best bull riders worldwide compete.
- Historic Street Shows: Live performances on Main Street every Friday and Saturday from mid-March to mid-September.
- Broken Boot Gold Mine: An underground mine tour open from May 24th through Labor Day.
- Ride the Deadwood Stagecoach: Stagecoach rides starting in late May.
- Reenactment of the Trial of Jack McCall: Held Monday through Saturday during peak season, which typically begins in May.
- Monsters of Destruction: A nationwide monster truck event that comes to Deadwood yearly for The Deadwood Bash.
- Deadwood Mini Golf: An 18-hole mini-golf course with an on-site arcade, open from May to November (weather permitting).
There’s no shortage of ways to immerse yourself in the rich history of Deadwood!
Since we only had one day in Deadwood and arrived just after the historic street shows and Broken Boot Gold Mine had closed for the season, we had to make the most of our visit. We explored the Adams Museum, visited Mount Moriah Cemetery, and spent time at Outlaw Square. We also watched the free reenactment of Wild Bill’s murder, indulged in fudge from Chubby Chipmunk (voted the best fudge in the Black Hills), and enjoyed meals at the Gem Steakhouse & Saloon for lunch and Mustang Sally’s for dinner. Of course, we also strolled along the historic streets of Deadwood, including Main Street, browsing the various shops.
I highly recommend visiting the Adams Museum, a treasure trove of historic artifacts that’s a dream for any history lover, especially fans of the Old West and Frontier Days. Among the many fascinating items on display are Potato Creek Johnny’s original 7 oz gold nugget; a rare one-of-a-kind plesiosaur fossil; the Thoen Stone, which is a sandstone slab recording the discovery of gold in the Black Hills by Ezra Kind and his party in the 1830s; a two-headed calf; the first locomotive in the Black Hills; an original door from the brothel above the Bodega Bar; genuine moonshining equipment from Prohibition days; and various Old West weaponry, such as a small Derringer gun made between 1866 and 1873.
The museum also features clothing, items, and photographs from the Wild West era. Downstairs, you’ll find interactive games, including an augmented reality sandbox, brainteasers, life-size puzzles, pieces of wood showing features like lightning strikes or fungus growth, and a microscope for kids to examine items such as bugs and leafs up close.
The Adams Museum is open daily, from 9am to 5pm, May to September, and from October to April, it operates Tuesday through Saturday, from 10am to 4pm. The museum is closed on Sundays, Mondays, and winter holidays during the fall and winter seasons. Still, it will be open on Saturday, December 31st. While there is no set admission fee, a suggested donation of $5 per adult and $3 for children is encouraged. No food or drink is allowed.
We also visited Mount Moriah Cemetery, the final resting place of Wild Bill Hickok and his Wild West equal, Calamity Jane. Although the general consensus is that they were never romantically involved (despite one woman claiming to be their child), Wild Bill and Calamity Jane were close friends who had each other’s backs through various trials and tribulations. After Wild Bill was murdered, Calamity Jane claimed she went after his killer, Jack McCall, with a meat cleaver, having left her guns at home. After McCall was hanged, Jane remained in Deadwood for some time before relocating to Montana, where she lived for many years and even married. Eventually, Jane returned to Deadwood but succumbed to alcoholism, passing away in 1903. There are mixed reports as to why Calamity Jane is buried next to Wild Bill. Some say it was her dying wish to be laid beside him, while others claim it was a postmortem joke by the men planning her funeral, as Wild Bill allegedly had “no use for her in life”. I prefer to believe the former.
The cemetery is open year-round, with a $2 cash entry fee per person. It is self-guided, and in addition to the graves of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane, you’ll find additional notable figures such as Seth Bullock (U.S. Marshal, sheriff, and businessman), Madam Dora DuFran (a famous brothel madam), Freeman Knowles (American Civil War veteran, lawyer, journalist, and social activist), Blanche Colman (the first female lawyer in South Dakota), Granville G. Bennett (justice of the Dakota Territory Supreme Court and presiding judge at Jack McCall’s trial for the murder of Wild Bill), and William Randolph Steele (Civil War veteran and Delegate from Wyoming Territory).
We also watched one of the three free showings of Wild Bill Hickok’s shooting reenactment, something that was super fun. Held at the back of Saloon No. 10 Monday through Saturday, the shows are at 1pm, 3pm, and 5pm. We were having lunch at the Gem Steakhouse & Saloon, directly across the street from Saloon No. 10, when a man dressed as Wild Bill came out and started hollering for people to join the 1pm show. We quickly finished eating, paid, and made our way over. The show was packed, and latecomers had to stand or sit on the floor, so I recommend arriving early to get a seat. The show lasts about 30 minutes, with the first 20 minutes covering Wild Bill’s life and the events leading up to his murder. Four volunteers are then invited to reenact the murder with “Wild Bill,” with “Jack McCall” appearing in the last five minutes to complete the scene. It’s an entertaining and educational free show that I strongly suggest seeing.
Lastly, as I mentioned, we had lunch at the Gem Steakhouse & Saloon and dinner at Mustang Sally’s – both of which I would recommend. While there are numerous restaurants in Deadwood, many offer similar items like burgers, fries, pizza, chicken, steak, sandwiches, etc. You will not find places offering specific cuisines, like Japanese, Greek, or Indian food. You will need to drive to Spearfish or Rapid City for those. For a complete list of dining options and to find something that best suits your tastes, I recommend checking out the official Deadwood website, where all the restaurants are conveniently listed – https://www.deadwood.com/eat-drink/
Overall, any fan of the Wild West or the historic expansion of the United States should put Deadwood, South Dakota, at the top of their travel list. Or, if you’re a fan of the HBO show Deadwood, this town is a must-visit. It’s perfect for a day trip or weekend getaway, offering plenty of historical attractions and intriguing sites. We only scratched the surface of what Deadwood has to offer, so I’d love to return, particularly during spring or summer, so we can enjoy the street shows and gold mine tour. However, even in the fall, as we experienced, there is still plenty to enjoy, making the trip well worth it. Located about 45 minutes northwest of Rapid City, South Dakota, Deadwood is easily accessible for anyone visiting the area or flying into Rapid City. Come and experience the town that’s been “entertaining guests since 1876” for yourself!
