One of the most unique palaces I’ve ever visited, the National Palace of Pena feels like something dreamed up during a wild, psychedelic acid trip. With its clashing colors and architectural styles, dramatic towers, puzzling statues and gargoyles, and wildly mismatched tiling, it’s a fever dream brought to life. A Romanticist castle filled with a mixture of architectural styles, including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic, and Neo-Renaissance, it’s easy to see why the National Palace of Pena is listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. Perched high in the mountains above the charming town of Sintra, Portugal, just outside of Lisbon, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is well worth the visit.
A National Monument of Portugal, the National Palace of Pena once served as a Portuguese royal family residence long before the monarchy was abolished. Today, it is occasionally used for state events by the President of the Portuguese Republic and other government officials. However, the site’s origins date much further back. Before becoming a royal stronghold in the early 1800s, it began as a sanctuary in the Middle Ages and later became a monastery in the late 1400s. The site originally featured a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena, said to have been built after an apparition of the Virgin Mary appeared. After John II of Portugal visited the site in 1493 and was deeply moved by it, he ordered the construction of a monastery. For centuries, it remained a quiet place of worship, home to no more than 18 monks at a time.
The site’s history changed dramatically after the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake, which destroyed the monastery and reduced it to ruins. For decades, it remained untouched until King Consort Ferdinand II acquired the site in 1838. He set out to transform the remains of the old monastery into the spectacular palace that stands today, intended to serve as the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family. Construction occurred between 1842 and 1854, incorporating rich symbolism, vaulted arches, and a blend of Medieval and Islamic architectural elements.
After King Ferdinand’s death in 1885, the palace passed to his second wife, Elisa Hensler, who later sold it to King Luís. Just four years later, in 1889, the Portuguese State purchased the property. However, the royal family continued to use it as a residence. It wasn’t until the Republican Revolution of 1910 that the palace was officially classified as a national monument and transformed into a museum. On October 5, 1910, Queen Amélie, the last queen of Portugal, spent her final night at the National Palace of Pena before being forced into exile and sent to France during the revolution.
After officially becoming a state-run museum, the National Palace of Pena quickly gained popularity. It became one of Portugal’s most visited landmarks. Its vibrant colors were restored at the end of the 20th century, helping to preserve its striking appearance. In 1995, the palace and the rest of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognizing its historical and architectural significance.
Located at Estrada da Pena, 2710-609 Sintra, Portugal, the National Palace of Pena is open daily from 9:30am to 6:30pm, with the last ticket sale and final entry at 6pm. Admission is €13 for adults (ages 18–64), €10 for youth (ages 6–17) and seniors (65+), and €35 for families (2 adults and 2 youths). Be advised, the ticket booth is located at the bottom of a steep, fairly long hill from the palace entrance. While visitors are welcome to walk up to the palace, per our guide, it could take upwards of 20 minutes. Luckily, there is a small, free shuttle bus available. The only drawback is that you may need to wait 15–20 minutes (or more) for a ride.
While tickets can be purchased on the day of your visit, it is strongly recommended to buy them in advance, as entry is allowed only during specific time slots. If you don’t book ahead, you may not be able to enter at your preferred time – or at all – since time slots often sell out quickly and the palace can get overcrowded. For those who don’t pre-purchase tickets, be prepared to wait in line, as entry is limited and only a few visitors are allowed in at a time. The palace is extremely popular, with many tour groups gracing its grounds. Also, missing your scheduled entry will mean forfeiting your spot without refunds or automatic rescheduling.
I’ve visited numerous castles throughout my travels, such as the Tower of London and Dover Castle in England, Prague Castle in the Czech Republic, and Ortenburg Castle in Bautzen, Germany, along with many palaces in Russia, including the Winter Palace, Catherine Palace, Peterhof Palace, and Yusupov Palace, and yet, none compared to the otherworldly atmosphere of the National Palace of Pena.
Most European castles follow a familiar blueprint of cold, gray stone, while Russian palaces are defined by grandeur, gold, and opulence. The Palace of Pena is neither. Instead, it’s a vibrant blend of colors and eclectic architectural styles, with each room offering a surprise. You never quite know what you’ll see next!
It’s important to note that you cannot explore the palace rooms freely. The visit is more like a theme park ride, following a one-way, scheduled route. Only in the courtyards and inside the chapel can you move about freely and aren’t forced in one direction like on a conveyor belt. This system is clearly necessary due to the large number of daily visitors and the need to manage foot traffic and prevent human traffic jams, although bottlenecks still sometimes occur. While others are free to pass you if you want extra time to read or observe, tour groups are usually encouraged to keep moving as a unit, and lingering too long in one spot is discouraged. Nonetheless, we had adequate time to appreciate each room.
Overall, the National Palace of Pena is one of the most unique, beautiful, and unforgettable royal palaces I’ve ever had the chance to visit. I was in awe for nearly the entire tour, pleasantly overwhelmed by the vibrant colors and varied mix of architectural styles at every turn. While the constant crowd was less than ideal, it was understandable given the palace’s popularity, and ultimately, it didn’t diminish the experience or take away from how impressive the palace was. The National Palace of Pena easily earned a spot in the top three of all the places we visited in Europe on this trip.
