Located closer to Africa than mainland Spain, Lanzarote is an interesting place to visit. Its landscape is desert-like, featuring endless volcanic terrain and Greek-style architecture, rather than the tropical look often associated with islands. This unique blend helps create an otherworldly experience. Lanzarote is one of seven islands in the Canary Islands, part of Spain’s southernmost autonomous region, sitting just 62 miles off the coast of Western Sahara and Morocco. As the easternmost of the seven islands, its geography and subtropical hot climate reflect its close proximity to Africa.
Although believed to be the first Canary Island to be settled, with written records dating back to the Roman era, Lanzarote is now the third most populated of the seven islands, after Tenerife and Gran Canaria. The island is home to around 163,000 people, with more than half residing in the capital, Arrecife. It spans approximately 326 square miles (846 square kilometers), measuring 37 miles north to south, 16 miles west to east, and featuring 132 miles of coastline. One of its main attractions is Timanfaya National Park, which is nearly 20 square miles of volcanic landscape and the only national park in Spain that is entirely geological. The island was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1993, highlighting its commitment to nature conservation.
Often called the “Island of Eternal Spring,” Lanzarote receives very little rainfall, mostly limited to the winter months. Our guide said temperatures rarely drop below 70°F (21°C) year-round. Water is a precious resource on the island, as summer rainfall is nearly nonexistent, and it is impractical to import water from mainland Spain, more than 1,300 miles away. The island can be reached by air through Lanzarote Airport near Arrecife, by ferry from other Canary Islands, or by cruise ship, as we did.
We visited in mid-May, with temperatures around 80°F – warm and breezy. We booked a guided bus tour that promised to circle the island and stop at key points. It was… alright. I wouldn’t choose it again, as we spent zero time in Arrecife and didn’t get to explore or spend much time inside Timanfaya National Park. The tour only drove quickly through the national park, and we missed the main highlight, the steam geyser. 👎🏼
I did enjoy the bus trip for giving us a complete loop around the island, allowing us to take in Lanzarote’s unique landscape. We saw the uniform Greek-style architecture, which our guide explained is a legal requirement; every building must adhere to the same basic design. We briefly stopped inside Timanfaya National Park to use the restroom and see the rows of camels available for rides.
Another highlight was Mirador del Charco de Los Clicos (the Green Lagoon) in El Golfo, which offered stunning views of the ocean and shoreline. The lagoon, consisting of algae and sulfur in trapped seawater, is set inside a volcanic crater. The deep green hue contrasts strongly with the surrounding black sand and vibrant blue waves.
The final stop on our bus tour was Bodega La Geria, an extensive winery offering tours, tastings, and tapas. We spent about an hour exploring the unique “wine holes,” browsing the souvenir shop, and sampling some of the bitter local wine. Wine is one of Lanzarote’s biggest economic exports, alongside tourism. Due to the island’s strong winds, grapes aren’t grown in traditional vineyards. Instead, they are planted in individual, hand-dug pits called hoyos, each surrounded by a semicircle of stone walls to protect the vines and capture the limited moisture from the air. Aside from the constant volcanic landscape, this ingenious method of viticulture was by far the most fascinating part of the island.
We barely scratched Arrecife’s surface, so I chose to walk there after the bus dropped us back at the ship. My choices were a half-mile stroll to the city or sitting on the ship for four hours, so I opted to explore on foot. Since it was a Sunday, most shops were closed, a common occurrence in Spain and Portugal, but my main goal wasn’t shopping. I wanted to visit the impressive, medieval-looking Castillo de San José. I enjoyed the visit as a history enthusiast, although all the informational signs were in Spanish. Therefore, I focused on taking in the artifacts rather than reading about them 🤷🏻♀️. Built between 1776 and 1779, the fort was designed as a defensive stronghold against pirate attacks and a public works project to provide employment during famine and poverty, earning it the nickname “Fortress of Hunger.”
Today, it houses the International Museum of Contemporary Art.
Renovated in the 1970s by local artist César Manrique, the fort was intended to house modern contemporary art. However, during my visit, I mostly found ancient artifacts, including cannons, traditional clothing, pottery, and even a prehistoric mummy. The mummy, discovered in one of the island’s volcanic caves, was naturally preserved and dates back to a time before the Spanish conquest of the Canary Islands. I learned all of this afterward, as all the written information was in Spanish and I don’t speak Spanish. 🙃
After visiting the fort, I met up with my stepdad, and we stopped by the local police station, as he collects patches and coins as a retired sheriff. We were treated to an amazing behind-the-scenes tour, including visiting a back office and looking inside their patrol cars. It was definitely a unique and memorable experience. Thank you, stepdad!
Overall, while I enjoyed my visit to Lanzarote, I wish I had more time, ideally two to three days. I would have explored Timanfaya National Park much more thoroughly, including seeing the geyser and taking a camel ride. I’d spend more time in Arrecife, which has much more to offer than just the fort, police station, or closed shops and restaurants. I’d go for hikes around the island, as this would allow for a closer look at the unique landscape. I’d visit the Cactus Garden and Cueva de los Verdes, which is a massive lava tube. So please take my advice: if you can visit Lanzarote, plan for two to three days to fully experience everything this desert island has to offer. If you have only one day, like us, I strongly suggest skipping the guided bus tours that control where you go and what you see and explore independently. Given the island’s small size, if planned correctly, you will have plenty of time to hit the highlights.
